CityScape

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I just submitted a bunch of photos to AmLit, American University's Literary Magazine.  For some reason it's feels really important to share how beautiful Egypt is, particularly from my perspective.  I'm awed by Egypt in many of the same ways as any tourist through the ages, but my aesthetic is slightly different.  While the pyramids are amazing and I love a good tomb painting, I think the most beautiful thing I've seen in Egypt is CAIRO in all of it's tan, unfinished, falling apart, littered, lively wonder.  As an environmentalist, I have no idea why it appeals to be so, but literally find it break-taking.

Here are some highlights, some Cairo, some Garbage City, some Siwa:

Graceful Fall from Grace

There was a time when this blog would get more than 40 hits a day, and now I don't even know if my mom reads this blog anymore.  What can you do?  I'll just have to repromote this baby next time I go to Egypt.  While my Egypt-themed Blog's fame my waver, by love for Egypt is steadfast.  I don't know if you've ever been distraught and moved to tears over a country to which you have no right, but let me tell you, it is a terrible and magnificent all at once.  My latest instance if this was in preparation for February 12th's "Global Protest Against Sexual Terrorism Practiced on Egyptian Female Protesters."  I just can't describe the sympathy I feel for these women who are trying to enact change.  I can't explain how frustrating it is that I can't express how wearing it is to be harassed even on the most superficial level.  So I can't even fathom the horror of violent sexual assault.  I am overwrought when others don't understand how important these issues are, and how truly and fundamentally all Egyptians deserve dignity.  So though I latest foray to Egypt may be over I wanted to take this protest as an opportunity to at least try to make a difference.  It isn't my place to protest in Egypt.  It is dangerous and mostly likely I would just cause issues with the opposing side saying I was proof of "foreign hands at the wheel."  It isn't my government's place to tell the Egyptian government what to do, because you know that's worked so well in the past (please note sarcasm).  I also think it is absurdly presumptuous to think that any US policy maker would know more about what the Egyptians want or need than anyone who's actually Egyptian.  So this protest, in my country, in my city, was the one place I thought it was appropriate for me to have a voice.  It was a small protest with a friendly family-oriented vibe.  I met some great people, and got some closure and a sense of accomplishment for myself.  There were a few media people there and several non-Egyptians who just thought it was good to show solidarity, so I like to think those people and cameras brought some attention to the issue.  Of course one always wishes that they could do more.  It is hard to acknowledge how little power you have, and it's even harder to acknowledge when something not your fight, or simply beyond you.

While it might not be my place to be the screaming activist on the Egyptian front lines, I can do my best to spread knowledge and understanding.  Women's History Month is coming up in March, and I am organizing a belly dancing lesson for students at my university.  I hope to use this lesson as a platform to discuss the vehicles of soft power and empowerment women of patriarchal societies can use in the private sphere.  I hope to use belly dancing as an example.  When in Egypt, I saw the most belly dancing, not in bars or in any seductress context, but in private gatherings of female friends.  It was a unique experience of sensuality and expression for one's self, instead of for the consumption of another.  I'll keep you updated as the event develops.

OPI

  In less than an hour I have my OPI or Oral Proficiency Interview (read those words with spooky ghost noise for proper emphasis).  This is an Arabic test for the end of my scholarship, to see how much I've improved.  Technically, the results don't mean nothing to me directly, because I have my grades for my classes, and I have already spent the money from this scholarship, but STILL, I would like to do well.  I don't suffer from test anxiety too badly, but here is something about these speaking Arabic tests that lead to me panic attacks.  Like seriously.  But right now I am in a good place, and I want to note that here.  I have been studying, computing on Rosetta Stone, listening to my Arabic music, and watching Arabic movies this last week to prepare.  I might not be naturally talented with languages, but you know what?   I am happy with what I have learned.  I was able to hold my own on a practice conversation with my friend.  I skimmed through a whole Arabic text book and a half, and I was happy with my grasp on the material.  I want you and all the Internet to know, before my confidence is destroyed by this test, that I have learned a lot, a lot, and even if I'm not the best Arabist in the world, I really love the language, and I view it's acquisition as a lifetime venture.  Thank you for your attention.

Street Art

So very slowly, I am taking steps towards closure in my Egyptian experience.  I have finally posted my collection of photos of graffiti I came across in Egypt.  I am very proud of the selection I have acquired.   I was often made fun of for taking photos of walls while my group was touring, but I really wanted to have these photos to share with you.  The people's art!  So earnest and so Egyptian, born from the revolution.  Cheesy, I know, but I find it inspiring.  Check it out at this link.  Here are a few of my favorites:

Living in the Past

Funny.  I just published that last post, and then called Sherif to wish him a happy new year.  I thought I was reaching him before midnight, but it turns out it's already 2013 over there!

Me: What time is it there?
Sherif:  One
Me:  What?!  Oh my God, Happy New Year.  You're already in 2013!  That's crazy.
Sherif:  Yeah, Starr, you've got to stop living in the past.
Me: *awkward pause as I don't get the joke* What?
Sherif:  Cuz you're still in 2012!
Me: Ah!  I get it.

Sherif is out at a bar with friends in the exciting metropolis of Cairo, while I am underage and planning on staying in with my mom and drinking sparkling pear juice as we watch TV in our living room.   I love my mom, but I can't help feeling as though my life becomes notably less glamorous when I return stateside.  Who knows, maybe I should take the "stop living in the past" comment more seriously :P

Happy New Year

HOME

Hey, all.  I'm sorry for leaving anyone out there hanging.  I'm home!  I made it.  My trip to the Red Sea was lovely.  We rode a huge yacht and jumped off its top, maybe three stories high, into the red sea.  It was amazing.  Then I had a few days at home to pack up and say goodbyes.  I saw who I could, but I had to keep reminding myself that the good times we had together are more important than a frantic goodbye.  Hit my favorite restaurants.  Went to a party.  Visited the Agricultural Museum (CRAZY place you guys, crazy), and the oldest Mosque in Cairo.  I had a small NSLI-Y reunion with three other students who studied with me in Egypt in high school and happened to be in Cairo on my last days.  I tried to keep my head.  I don't leave Cairo well.  I tend to panic when traveling, especially when moving, but I have been known to have full scale meltdowns when leaving Egypt.  I did alright this time.  I guess.  That last day was pretty awful just waiting at home for my taxi to come at midnight, but I just had to remind myself: nothing I could rush to do on my last day would do any justice to the experience I had.  I couldn't fix anything or redo anything, and trying anything new would undoubtedly not be enjoyed in my stressed-out state.  I just tried to stay calm.  I give myself a C+ in that venture. And then I flew home.  I watched a chick flick and a samurai movie while flying over the Atlantic, and was stuck in the Chicago airport for over 6 hours due to customs and full flights, but I made it just in time for Christmas Eve.

Now I'm home, and though I've only been here a week sometimes I wonder, "Did Cairo happen?"  It is such a different life and experience here than in Cairo.  It is so easy just to fall back into my patterns.  My family likes the presents I brought home and I see Cairo paraphernalia all over my house, but it feels so distant.  Last time I came home all I wanted to do was talk about my experiences and share everything about Egypt with anyone who would listen, but this time... I don't know.  I don't really want to think about it.  I feel as though I need to reflect, but I am reluctant.  I have yet to go through my pictures because doing so requires me to confirm that yes, Cairo did indeed happen, and I am no longer there.  Life is overwhelming enough here with holidays, family ups and downs, preparing for my grandpa's memorial, and figuring out logistics for next semester and my summer internship.  Dealing with reverse culture-shock and home-sickness just seems like too much sometimes, but I think working through those things is important.  I hope to us this blog to work through all that in the weeks to come.  If I don't get distracted, expect photos and reflections coming soon.

The NSLI-Y gang.  Some of us just can't help coming back to Egypt.

Finished the Final Final and Left for the Sea

KHALAS!  I finished my finals.  I honestly didn't know if I could do it, but I did.  (I did have to get extensions on my papers, but to be perfectly honest, I didn't even think I could do those by the extended deadline.)  Only goodness know why, but then I decided to take an official computerized gage your Arabic level test, and that of course destroyed my self esteem.  A three to four hour test is a pretty lame prize for finishing finals, but now I'm done!  I'm trying to get last visits and Christmas presents in.  I had a calligraphy lesson.  I met my British friend from the summer and went out to my favorite Sudanese restaurant.  I met Salma and went to my favorite Yemeni restaurant.  I finally made it to the used clothes market.  I swear to jeebus, the used clothing market is possibly the most hipster place in the world.  There are literally just racks and racks of cheap used clothes blocks and blocks and blocks.  The thrift store of dreams.  Most of the clothes are western style, but I did find a pretty sweet galabaya :)  I can't wait to show my absurd purchases including the most bi'a shebab pants in the world!!!  If anyone is interested the market is right outside the nasser metro station and under the 26th of July Bridge.  And now I am at my program's final retreat at Ain Sokhna on the Red Sea.  Swimming.  Drawing.  Reading.  And this hotel is fancy.  Next we go on a yacht.  I won the program award for "Most Perseverance & Suggestion of the Week Champion."  Gots to run!!!