Finished the Final Final and Left for the Sea

KHALAS!  I finished my finals.  I honestly didn't know if I could do it, but I did.  (I did have to get extensions on my papers, but to be perfectly honest, I didn't even think I could do those by the extended deadline.)  Only goodness know why, but then I decided to take an official computerized gage your Arabic level test, and that of course destroyed my self esteem.  A three to four hour test is a pretty lame prize for finishing finals, but now I'm done!  I'm trying to get last visits and Christmas presents in.  I had a calligraphy lesson.  I met my British friend from the summer and went out to my favorite Sudanese restaurant.  I met Salma and went to my favorite Yemeni restaurant.  I finally made it to the used clothes market.  I swear to jeebus, the used clothing market is possibly the most hipster place in the world.  There are literally just racks and racks of cheap used clothes blocks and blocks and blocks.  The thrift store of dreams.  Most of the clothes are western style, but I did find a pretty sweet galabaya :)  I can't wait to show my absurd purchases including the most bi'a shebab pants in the world!!!  If anyone is interested the market is right outside the nasser metro station and under the 26th of July Bridge.  And now I am at my program's final retreat at Ain Sokhna on the Red Sea.  Swimming.  Drawing.  Reading.  And this hotel is fancy.  Next we go on a yacht.  I won the program award for "Most Perseverance & Suggestion of the Week Champion."  Gots to run!!!

Shopping

I am not the type to go out of my way to shop.  In fact, I usually avoid it.   Somehow, this past week I ended up shopping four (five if you count a return trip) times at four different prominent shopping malls in the Greater Cairo Area.  It was moderately enjoyable experience, but I probably won’t do it again anytime soon.  From this accidental shopping-fest I gained some cool stuff, good times with cool people, and insight on the most popular shopping areas.  Check it out:

City Stars:  Located in Nasser city, a nice (almost) suburb to East.  City Stars is the hugest, poshest, least Egyptian mall in all of Egypt.  It boasts 700 different brand name stores, food venders, a grocery store, and movie theaters.  It is very clean with an over the top faux old Euro decor.  I went there with my Spanish roommate.  On one floor every other store we passed seemed to be Spanish in origin.  City Stars is where you go when you’re homesick, enjoy people looking down their noses at you, and want to blow even more money than you usually would on American Eagle.  This was my least favorite shopping experience.  BUT I did get some cool socks that look like denim with jean pockets!

Khan el-Khalili:  The tourist trap in Islamic Cairo.  It is the longest continually and currently open street Bazaar.  Ever.  You have to see it at least once, and you must purchase your friends’ travel presents there, but you might as well leave it at that.  It is the opposite experience from City Stars, but equally unpleasant after the initial aw wears off (exactly like City Stars).  It is crowded, dirty, and every product is Egypt themed.  Store clerks shout as you pass, “I have what you’re looking for!” “Let me take your money!” and “I will make you happy forever!”  The only way to avoid being ripped-off is to haggle like your life depends on it.  Usually, it is overrun with foreigners, but during the nights of Ramadan the population is surprisingly native.  It’s always a trip when you go the Khan.  I will undoubtedly I will be forced to go back with friends at some point, at which time I may just have to buy a slinky belly dancing galabeya...

Mall of Arabia (MOA, hee hee): I don’t know if anyone outside of 6 October City cares about the Mall of Arabia, but for us 6 Oh kids this mall has been a long time coming.  I remember seeing all kinds of advertisements for this baby two years ago.  It feels like a mall, sterile and modern.  It’s pretty big and includes a kind of courtyard with a “dancing fountain” and a food court.  MOA will always have a place near and dear to my heart because the food court includes the only Dairy Queen in all of Egypt.  The mall is pricey by Egyptian standards, but I got a cute dress for a good price (I’ll never be able to wear it in Egypt, but whatever).  I admit MOA, Arabia, doesn’t compare to the MOA, America, but it’s doing it’s best, and it’s in 6 October so I like it more than I should.  

Wust el-Balad:  And the award for best shopping experience of the week goes to...  DOWNTOWN!  I personally have perused the area around Talat Harb Square.  It’s central, cheap, lively, and genuinely Egyptian (rather than Ancient Egyptian themed, or desperately foreign).   A lot of the stores sell higabi (veiled woman) versions of H&M-like merchandise.  There is some cute stuff.  There are also a lot of street vendors around with cheap T-shirts, scarves, shoes, and underwear.  I personally would not buy my intimates at a street vendor, but to each his own.  I purchased a lovely map of the world in Arabic, and a spongebobagab (what I call a scarf with spongebob printed on it).  You can also find some terribly translated shirts in English that are always great for a laugh.  The best part about shopping downtown is that there is always an ‘ahwa nearby.  If you’re ever downtown, ask to be directed to Borssa, that’s where the cool kids hang out ;)

Independent me!

Today after class I went to the grocery store all by myself!  I think there may be one closer to my house, but I went to one that was closer to Kalimat, but on the way home.  My immediate family can tell you: I do not shop well, ESPECIALLY grocery shop.  Let me tell you, it's way harder in a different language and when you need to make sure you can carry all of your purchases.  BUT IT DID IT!  I got a lighter (but I still don't know how to light my stove).  I got dish and washing machine detergent... I think I did anyway.  There seem to be more additives than detergents on the market and I really couldn't tell the difference between them.  I also got some frozen corn.  I really want to eat the fruits and veggies here, but I am waiting for my stomach to adjust.  I figures frozen corn that needs to be cooked it is a nice sterile compromise to I get some veggies in my diet.  I also stopped by a little tiny minimarket by my house for water this morning.  I hoping to get in good with the men who work there so they will keep the little boys and shabeb (young men) from calling after me.

At first I didn't want to tell the story that follows because I didn't want Mom to worry, but I think it is a good cultural lesson for others coming to Egypt.  This is about clothes.  I wear black skinny jeans and t-shirts most of the time.  I have been specifically wearing not tight t-shirts these past few days, and I haven't been bothered other than a couple of awkward stares.  Yesterday I wore a tank top with an unbuttoned long sleeve over shirt.  No cleavage or anything, but still.  "Too much collar-bone?" I asked Sherif before we went out.  He thought it may be fine for going to class on the normal routes.  A few minutes after going outside he said, "Maybe I was a little too  optimistic about the shirt..." What surprised me was that the Egyptian boys were making stupid faces, and hollering at me when I was clearly walking with another Egyptian guy.  Have they no dude code???  I asked Sherif if he would fight for my honor.  He responded that if the kids got really out of line he would walk me home first and then come back and fight them.  I found this response unsatisfying.  If I can't fight for my honor, I at least want to watch when someone else does and maybe get a shot in.  "That's not very nice," Sherif said.  I don't think sexual harassment in the street is very nice either, but I didn't belabor the point.  Ultimately, the walking home bit is for the protection of the girl in case the cat-caller's friends turn up.  That walk with Sherif was a good little social experiment, and I was glad I tried the outfit with him and not when I went out alone.

So the cat-calling is unpleasant, but not too bad, especially if you dress mildly.  The only upsetting thing, is that I feel like I owe it to woman-kind to tell these guys off or sock them in the face.  I'm pretty sure even the Egyptian girls just have to take it.  No worries concerned family, I don't plan on starting any fights, especially not so close to my house.  I am going to do this strategically.  I'm going to be a good customer of the minimarket near my house and then as the man in charge to reign in the boys who hang out there.  Once I am a regular face there I think a firm "BESS" (enough) to the boys be acceptable.

I think it's interesting:  Sherif keeps telling me that I'm in a really nice neighborhood, but if my mom was here she would be mortified.  (She may be consoled slightly by the terrifying gate around my house and padlocked inner gate.)  As it stands I am quite happy with my area, but it certainly isn't Northwest DC, and that's fine by me.

This weekend (today, Thursday, was the last day of the work week) I am off to 6 October to see Hagar and my host family.  I think I may even get to see my host sister's ballet recital!